Month: April 2010

Brazos de Dios Chili Cheese Grits

/ Ren

Locally-milled corn grits are simmered in homemade vegetable stock, then combined with farmhouse cheddar, fried onions, fresh peppers, garlic, cumin and cilantro and topped with smoky chipotle chili sauce..

Brazos de Dios Chili Cheese Grits

For the Sauce

1 cup fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
2 chipotles en adobo, diced
1/4 cup Spanish onion, diced
1/2 tablespoon peanut oil
sea salt

Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until slightly browned.  Add the remaining ingredients, reduce heat, cover and simmer 20 minutes. Taste and adjust for salt as needed.

For the Grits

1 cup stone-ground cornmeal
2 cups homemade vegetable stock
1 tablespoon pastured butter
1/2 Spanish onion, chopped
1/2 large poblano pepper, chopped
1 medium sweet red pepper, chopped
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper
1/2 cup sharp cheese, grated, plus more for garnish
several sprigs fresh cilantro, torn

Heat the butter in a heavy skillet over medium heat until shimmering.  Add the cumin seeds and fry 30 seconds.  Add the onions, peppers and garlic and fry until lightly browned, then remove from heat.

Bring the stock to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and slowly whisk in the corn meal. Cook and stir until thick, adjusting consistency with additional stock if needed.

Add 2/3 of the cooked vegetables to the grits, along with any remaining melted butter. Fold in the cheese and cilantro and stir to combine.  Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, then cover and let stand 5 minutes.

To serve, spoon grits onto a plate or into a bowl and top with spoonfuls of chipotle sauce. Spoon remaining vegetables over the top, then garnish with a little more cheese and cilantro.

Omnivore’s Option

Add 1/4 pound seasoned, browned ground bison or pastured beef to the chipotle chili sauce.

This post is part of the Nourishing Gourmet’s Pennywise Platter Thursday!

Olive Oil Cake with Lemon, Rosemary and Mascarpone

/ Ren

Tart and savory with just a hint of sweetness, this luscious cake gains body and complexity from extra virgin olive oil combined with cultured butter, pastured eggs, freshly-squeezed lemon juice, rosemary and raw honey.  Try it topped with homemade mascarpone or a simple lemon glaze..

 

Olive Oil Cake with Lemon, Rosemary and Mascarpone

 

For the Mascarpone

1 pint raw, fresh cream (ultra-pasteurized cream will not work)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon filtered water

Heat the cream in a double-boiler until it reaches 185 degrees. Mix water and lemon juice and add to the cream; it should thicken right away. Keep mixture at 185 degree for a full 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Transfer mixture to a bowl, cover and refrigerate overnight. Transfer to a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a clean bowl, refrigerate allow allow to separate 12-24 hours.  Mascarpone will keep in the refrigerator for about 1 week.

For the Cake (adapted from a recipe by Ina Garten)

1 cup organic AP flour
1/2 cup sprouted spelt flour
4 oz cultured butter at room temperature
1/4 cup raw honey
2 large pastured eggs at room temperature
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
3/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, divided
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup preserved lemon peel, minced

Cream the butter and honey together in a bowl until fluffy.  Beat in the lemon peel and eggs, one at a time.

Sift together the flours, baking powder & soda and salt in a bowl. Combine the olive oil and lemon juice in another bowl and alternately add the flour and oil mixtures to the honey butter mixture.

Lightly grease an 8×8 glass dish with olive oil, then pour in the batter and smooth with a spatula. Bake in a 350-degree oven until a toothpick comes out clean, about 40 minutes.

Let cake cool at least 15 minutes, then serve topped with mascarpone and garnished with slivered lemon peel and a sprig of rosemary.

Fideo con Pollo

/ Ren

Fideo con Pollo (Sopa de Fideo con Pollo) is a traditional, Spanish soup made with roasted chicken, fresh tomatoes, stock, garlic, onions and cumin with fat-fried vermicelli..

Fideo con Pollo

half of a small roasted chicken
3-4 cups homemade chicken stock
2 tablespoons rendered chicken fat
3-4 fresh tomatoes, cored and chopped
1 Spanish onion, chopped
4-6 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 cup straight fideo (vermicelli) or 2-3 vermicelli nests
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 fresh jalapeño, diced (optional)
1 tablespoon safflower flowers (optional)
1 teaspoon freshly-ground black pepper
sea salt
queso Oaxaca or other soft, melting cheese
fresh cilantro

Roast a chicken in the usual fashion and allow to cool enough to handle. Pull the meat and skin from 1/2 of the bird and tear or chop into largish pieces. Set aside.

Heat chicken fat in a heavy skillet over medium heat.  Add onions, garlic and vermicelli and sauté until the pasta is brown and somewhat crisp.  Add tomatoes and cook another 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

Add chicken, stock, tomato paste, safflower, jalapeño and black pepper, reduce heat and simmer until pasta is done. Adjust for salt, then ladle soup into individual cazuelas or soup bowls and serve piping hot with queso Oaxaca and torn cilantro.

This post is part of the Food Renegade’s Fight Back Friday!

Pretty Good Cheese for Most Normal People

/ Ren

“Pretty Good Cheese for Most Normal People” is the first line on the website of the Laurel Valley Creamery, a small, family-run operation in America’s heartland.  “This farm became part of our family in 1947 when Nick’s grandparents moved here from Boone County, West Virginia.  Betty and Fuzzy raised their four children, Rodney, Richard, Cathy and Christi here on the farm.  They   milked cows and raised food for both the cows and the family.  Fuzzy and Betty made their living here on the farm; to say they worked hard is an understatement. Nick grew up on the farm working with his grandparents, parents, aunt and uncles. Fuzzy passed away in 1994 and the farm began to decline soon after. In 2001 we moved onto the farm in a care taking capacity and began hobby farming.   In 2003 we purchased the farm from granny and in 2005 we began dairy farming, and in 2009 we began cheese making. We have in no way returned the farm to its former glory, but I hope we are well on the way.”

The Nolans are hoping to produce a feature-length documentary about what its like to try to carry on their family’s farming tradition and to help people renew their relationship with food production.

“From Grass to Cheese is a feature documentary that chronicles the ups and downs of a family-run dairy farm in Ohio during it’s first year of cheese production. From Grass to Cheese will tell the story of Nick and Celeste Nolan, their five children, and what it’s like to start up a family farm in the age of industrial agriculture..

..The current goal is to raise $28,000.00 to complete a feature-length documentary in 2011. This estimated budget would allow the filmmakers 1 to 2 trips per season to the farm (6-8 trips over a year), roughly 5 days per visit, during the first year of cheese production. The estimated budget for the film will help to cover costs including: rental gear, equipment purchases, gas, and in part, post production expenses such as editing, legal, promotions, and film festivals. Upon completion, the film will be sent to festivals and the filmmakers will seek DVD distribution. The film will also be distributed to farming/food advocates in order to spread the philosophies of community based farming..”


Stinging Nettle and Porcini Quiche with Green Garlic, Cipollini and Pecorino

/ Ren

In this crust-less quiche, stinging nettles are briefly blanched in salted boiling water, then shocked, chopped and combined in a rich custard with buttered green garlic, browned cipollini onions & porcini mushrooms, fresh oregano and shredded pecorino cheese..

Stinging Nettle and Porcini Quiche with Green Garlic, Cipollini and Pecorino

For the Custard (adapted from a recipe by Michael Ruhlman)

2 cups fresh whole milk
1 cup fresh heavy cream
6 pastured eggs (about 10 oz)
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly-ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Whisk the eggs until frothy then stir in the remaining ingredients.

For the Filling

1 cup fresh stinging needles
1 tablespoon pastured butter
2 tablespoons green garlic, thinly sliced
1/3 cup porcini mushrooms, thinly sliced
1/4 cup cipollini onions, coarsley chopped
1/2 cup pecorino cheese, grated
1 tablespoon fresh parsley, coarsley chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh Italian oregano, coarsely chopped

Plunge the nettles into a pot a lightly salted boiling water and blanch for 2 minutes (the leaves will turn bright green). Immediately drain and plunge into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process. Drain and chop as you would spinach.

Melt the butter in a heavy skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add the green garlic, mushrooms and onions and cook until light golden brown. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

To Assemble

Lightly butter a casserole or glass pie pan then add a layer of sautéed vegetables. Top with half of the cheese and herbs, then add 1/2 of the custard mixture. Repeat with a second layer. Bake in a 350 degree oven until browned and set, about 30 minutes depending on the depth of your dish.  Allow to cool 15 minutes before serving.

Stinging Nettle on FoodistaStinging Nettle

Chili Mac for Grownups (and adventurous kids)

/ Ren

Chunks of local, pastured ground beef fried with yellow onions and cumin and simmered with dried chilies, garlic, Mexican oregano, halved grape tomatoes and jalapeños.  Tossed with gluten-free corn macaroni and topped with shredded cheddar, crushed yellow corn chips and fresh cilantro..

Chili Mac for Grownups (and adventurous kids)

3-4 ancho chilies, split, stemmed, seeded and toasted
2-3 New Mexico chilies, split, stemmed, seeded and toasted
filtered water as needed

1 tablespoon beef tallow or bacon drippings
1/2 pound local, pastured ground beef or bison
1/2 yellow onion cut into large dice
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
sea salt & freshly-ground black pepper

1/2 cup grape tomatoes, halved
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 fresh jalapeño, diced
1 1/2 teaspoons Mexican oregano

1 cup corn macaroni, cooked and drained

yellow corn chips, crushed
sharp cheddar cheese, grated
fresh cilantro, torn

Toast the split chilies on a dry comal or skillet over medium heat for 20 seconds on each side. Take care not to let them scorch, or they will be bitter. Allow to cool slightly, then place in a food processor or blender and crush into a fine powder. With the motor running, slowly add cool, filtered water until a thin paste is formed. Pour into a clean container and set aside.

Pinch off 1 1/2 inch pieces of ground beef, compress lightly and season with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper. Allow to stand 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the tallow or bacon fat in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering.  Add the chunks of ground beef to the hot fat, taking care not to crowd the pan. Allow to form a crisp crust on one side, then turn over and add the onions. Continue to cook until the onions are translucent, about 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the meat and onions to a plate, leaving as much fat as possible behind.

Add the tomatoes to the pan and cook until they begin to fall apart, about 3 minutes.  Add garlic and jalapeño and sauté briefly. Add pureed chilies, oregano, browned meat and onions, reduce heat to low and simmer 10 minutes. Adjust consistency with a little water if needed, then fold in cooked macaroni and stir to combine.  Taste and adjust for salt and pepper.  Correct bitterness if present with a tiny bit of honey.

Spoon mixture into individual serving dishes, and top with shredded cheese, crushed corn chips and torn, fresh cilantro.

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Smashed Reds

/ Ren

Un-peeled red potatoes are diced and boiled in vegetable stock, then drained and smashed with raw cream, roasted broccoli, garlic, caramelized onions and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper and a little melted butter over the top to seal the deal..

Smashed Reds with Roasted Garlic, Broccoli and Parmigiano-Reggiano

Reshmi Murgh (Silken Chicken)

/ Ren

Fresh, pastured chicken is rubbed with lemon juice and sea salt, then blast-roasted in a sauce of fresh cream, homemade garam masala, onions, ginger, toasted cumin and mint. Served with stock-simmered brown rice with bits of garden vegetables..

Reshmi Murgh (Silken Chicken)

Adapted from recipes by Madhur Jaffrey

For the Garam Masala

1 tablespoon cardamom seeds
2-inch stick of Ceylon cinnamon
1/3 of a whole nutmeg
1 teaspoon black Tellicherry peppercorns
1 teaspoon black cumin seeds
1 teaspoon whole cloves

Grind all ingredients together into a fine powder.  Store in an airtight container up to 2 months.

For Marinating the Chicken

1 pound skinned, bone-in chicken pieces (I prefer thighs)
1 teaspoon sea salt
2 tablespoons freshly-squeezed lemon juice
1/3 cup fresh heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon half-sharp paprika
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon freshly-grated ginger
2 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped

Pierce each piece of chicken several times with the tip of a small knife, then rub all over with sea salt and lemon juice and let stand 10 minutes.  Combine cream, garam masala, mint, paprika, cumin, garlic and ginger in a bowl. Coat each piece of chicken with the mixture and allow to stand 10 minutes.

To Prepare the Chicken

sea salt
freshly-ground Tellicherry pepper
a couple of pinches of garam masala
a couple of pinches of toasted, ground cumin
a pinch of cayenne
1/4 cup diced yellow onion
1/2 of a fresh lemon for squeezing

Line a high-sided cast iron pan with foil and arrange chicken pieces so that they are not touching the sides or each other. Sprinkle each piece with a little of the dry spices then squeeze lemon over the top. Roast in a 500 degree oven until the juices run clear, about 25 minutes for breasts or about 40 minutes for thighs.

Serve hot from the oven with stock-simmered brown rice, pouring a little of the pan juices over the top.  Garnish with a little extra mint.

Pan-Seared, Pole-Caught Maguro with Habanero Mango Sauce

/ Ren

Pole-and-line-caught US Atlantic yellowfin tuna is quickly seared in ginger and lemongrass-infused coconut oil and served with a fresh habanero mango sauce..

Pan-Seared, Pole-Caught Maguro with Habanero Mango Sauce

Infused oil

3 tablespoons virgin coconut oil
1 tablespoon freshly-grated ginger
1 6″ piece fresh lemongrass, split
2-3 sprigs fresh cilantro
1/2 fresh habanero, stemmed and seeded

Melt coconut oil over medium heat until very hot but not smoking .  Add ginger, lemongrass, cilantro and chile, remove from heat and allow to steep 20 minutes. Discard lemongrass.

Mango Sauce

1 fresh mango, peeled and cut into chunks
2 tablespoons freshly-squeezed Mayer lemon juice
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
the ginger, cilantro and chile from above recipe
1 tablespoon infused oil from above recipe
filtered water
sea salt

Add all ingredients to the bowl of a food processor and pulse until smooth, adding water as needed to achieve a spoon-able consistency. Adjust for salt and chill until ready to serve.

Seared Tuna

very fresh tuna steaks, about 1 inch thick
2 tablespoons infused oil from above recipe
sea salt
freshly-ground red and black peppercorns

Heat a cast iron skillet over medium heat for 10 minutes. Coat tuna with infused oil and season with salt and pepper.  Sear about 1 minute per side for rare, then transfer to a cutting board and allow to rest 5 minutes before carving into 3/8 inch thick slices. Spoon mango sauce into the center of a plate and arrange tuna on top. Garnish as you like.

Slow Money Austin

/ Ren

*** FOR RELEASE 4/12/2010 ***

Former Odwalla & Sweet Leaf Tea CEOs Join Visionary Investors
& Fellow Food Entrepreneurs To Talk Slow Money, April 21 & April 22

Austin, TX — April 12, 2010 — This April, companion events redefine the value of a healthy Central Texas food system, and reassess the role risk capital plays in fueling its growth. Joining the conversation are leading investors, entrepreneurs and regional sustainable food advocates.

The April 21 Slow Money Austin Showcase, held in partnership with the Sustainable Food Center and the City of Austin, provides an afternoon-­‐long program laying out the players, the issues and the opportunities involved in a healthy food system. With this event, Slow Money Austin brings together consumers, food businesses, civic leaders and investors to learn about the regional food chain, and explore funding alternatives essential to the continued growth of the regional food economy.

The following day, April 22, Slow Money Austin and nationally recognized Barr Mansion host a special Earth Day dinner prepared by the Dai Due Supper Club.

The dinner program combines a delectable exploration of the diverse, sustainably grown riches Central Texas has to offer with a continued dialog about funding growth in our region. In addition to a keynote presentation by Odwalla and Adina for Life founder Greg Steltenpohl.

At both events, made possible by underwriting sponsors Whole Foods Market and Barr Mansion, local food entrepreneurs embracing organic methods and focused on sustainability will discuss challenges and capital needs, suggesting myriad opportunities for investment and expansion. Presenters include food and beverage producers, distributors, restaurants, service providers and support businesses.

Collectively, these events and their participants present a complete picture of current local food enterprises, and a glimpse at what a more advanced, sustainable regional food system could look like.

For more information, please visit http://www.slowmoneyaustin.org

Join Us on April 21 & April 22!

Spanish Kale and Chorizo Soup

/ Ren

Here’s a simple, nourishing soup of homemade bone broth, Spanish cooking chorizo, Arroz bomba de Calasparra, fresh garden vegetables, fennel pollen and oregano..

Spanish Kale and Chorizo Soup

Kale is extraordinarily high in Vitamin K (778%) and is an excellent source of beta-carotene and Vitamins A and C.

1 quart homemade chicken stock
1 tablespoon Spanish olive oil
1/3 pound Spanish cooking chorizo, thinly sliced
1 Spanish onion, cut into 1/2 inch dice
2 Roma tomatoes, cored and diced
1/4 cup soft sun-dried tomatoes, chopped
1-2 Danvers carrots, oblique-cut
1-2 celery stalks, bias-cut
1-2 green garlic bulbs & tops, thinly sliced
1 cup kale, rinsed, ribbed and cut into chiffonade
1 tablespoon fennel seed
1 teaspoon fennel pollen (optional)
1/2 teaspoon crushed red chili
1 teaspoon dried wild mountain oregano
1 teaspoon freshly-ground black pepper
1/2 cup Arroz bomba de Calasparra or other good paella rice
sea salt

Sauté carrots in olive oil until about 2/3 done.  Add sausage, celery, onions, fennel seed and rice and stir to coat. Sauté until onions are opaque, about 3 minutes.

Add tomatoes, sun-dried tomatoes and chicken stock and simmer 15 minutes.  Add green garlic, kale, chili and oregano and simmer until rice done, about 15 minutes.  Season to taste with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, then ladle into bowls and drizzle with a little olive oil. Finish with a sprinkle of fennel pollen.

This recipe can be easily adapted for a vegetarian diet by substituting vegetable stock and eliminating the chorizo.

Austin’s Iconic Breakfast Tacos

/ Ren

As the New York Times recently pointed out, Austin is the center of the universe when it comes to breakfast tacos.  Trailers, bodegas and restaurants all over town serve up cheap, delicious tacos containing everything from purple corn, nopales and avocado to black beans, fried potatoes and bacon.  As amazing as the local fare is, though, its still tough to beat what you can make to your own taste at home, using fresh, local ingredients.

This 5-minute creation consists of local, pastured eggs, queso Añejo, crumbled chorizo with jalapeños, onions and grape tomatoes, fresh cilantro and hot sauce on a freshly-made cayenne tortilla.  Yum!

Homemade Breakfast Tacos

Ben Sklar for The New York Times

Rosemary, Garlic and Black Pepper-Grilled Lamb Chops

/ Ren

Local, pastured lamb is marinated overnight in olive oil, fresh rosemary, garlic and black pepper, then grilled to medium-rare over a smoky wood fire.  Served with crimini mushroom wild rice and grilled yellow tomatoes..

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Lay lamb chops in a glass dish and cover with fresh rosemary, garlic, black pepper and olive oil.  Cover and refrigerate 24 hours, turning once.  Allow to come to room temperature before grilling over a hot, smoky wood fire until just medium rare.  Transfer to a cutting board and allow to stand 5 minutes before serving (they will continue to cook a little). Lightly oil tomatoes and grill until the first split appears.

To prepare wild rice, soak dried crimini mushrooms in hot chicken or vegetable stock for 30 minutes. Transfer mushrooms to a side dish to drain and use the soaking liquid to cook the rice until just tender, about 45-60 minutes.  Melt butter over medium-high heat until shimmering, then sauté until golden brown. Stir into rice and serve hot.

Smoked Duck Pizza

/ Ren

A crisp cornmeal crust is topped with Aji Mirasol & New Mexico chili sauce, sliced red onions, smoked duck breast, Anaheim peppers, Quesillo Oaxaca and a fried duck egg.  Garnished with chili-lime chicharrón and fresh cilantro..

Smoked Duck Pizza

For the Crust  [makes 2 7-inch crusts] (adapted from a recipe by Martha Stewart)

1 teaspoon active dry yeast
a pinch of sugar
1/3 cups warm water
3/4 cups sprouted wheat flour, plus more for work surface
1/4 cup organic, stone-ground cornmeal, plus more for pizza stone
1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for bowl

In a small bowl, sprinkle the yeast and sugar over the warm water. Let stand until yeast is dissolved and mixture is foamy, about 10 minutes.

Combine flour, cornmeal, and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the center, and add the yeast mixture and oil. Slowly stir ingredients with a wooden spoon just until dough starts to come together. Turn out dough on a lightly floured work surface, and knead until smooth and elastic, 7 to 10 minutes.

Divide dough into four 4-ounce balls. Place balls in a shallow oiled bowl, turning to coat with oil; cover with plastic wrap, and let rise 1 hour at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator.

Preheat oven to 500 degrees with a pizza stone on lowest rack. Stretch dough into 7-inch rounds. Sprinkle cornmeal on a pizza peel or inverted baking sheet.  Place dough rounds on top, and cooked until light golden brown, about 10 minutes.  Set aside to cool.

Slide rounds onto pizza stone, and bake until crust is crisp and golden and toppings are bubbling, 5 to 7 minutes.

For the Sauce

3-4 New Mexico chilies, stemmed and seeded
3-4 Aji Mirasol chilies, stemmed and seeded
3 cloves garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon raw guajillo honey
1 tablespoon Mexican oregano
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/4 cup tomato puree
sea salt to taste

Toast chilies in a dry skillet over medium heat for a minute or two on each side, taking care not to let them burn. Place the chilies in a bowl and cover with boiling water.  Let stand until soft, about 1 hour.

Drain chilies and add to the bowl of a food processor along with the cumin, garlic, honey, oregano and tomato puree and process until smooth.  Use a bit of the chili soaking water if needed to thin the sauce.  Taste and adjust for salt.

For the Chicharrón and Fried Eggs

The skin and fat layer of 1 duck breast, cut into 1″ julienne
chili powder
fresh lime

Cook duck fat with attached skin over medium-low heat until the fat has rendered and the skin is a deep golden brown.  Transfer to a side dish to drain then immediately season with chili powder and fresh-squeezed lime juice.

Pour off all but 2 teaspoons of duck fat, then crack eggs into hot pan.  Fry just until barely set, as the eggs will be finished in the oven.

To assemble

Use the back of a spoon to spread a thin layer of chili sauce over the cornmeal crust.  Arrange sliced, smoked duck breast, chopped red onion, sliced Anaheim peppers and Oaxaca cheese over the top.  Place fried egg in the center of the pizza then bake in a 500 degree oven until bubbly, about 5 minutes.

Garnish with chicharrón and fresh cilantro and serve immediately.