Guajillo honey

Pan-Seared Bandera Quail Legs, Costeño and Guajillo Honey Glaze

/ Ren

Fresh quail legs from nearby Bandera, Texas are lightly rubbed with peanut oil and seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper before being quickly seared in a cast iron skillet.  Glazed with a mixture of local guajillo honey, ground Costeño chiles and a bit of coarse mustard, then popped in a very hot over for just a minute or two..

Pan-Seared Bandera Quail Legs, Costeño and Guajillo Honey Glaze

Native to Oaxaca, Costeño chiles have an apricot fruit tone and a heat level similar to the chipotle.  Less common in the US,  Costeños are frequently used in salsa and soups but can occasionally found in mole recipes as well.

Toasted Onion and Ancho Chili Jam

/ Ren

Toasted ancho chiles, onions, garlic, cumin and coriander with apple cider vinegar and a touch of wild guajillo honey..

Toasted Onion and Ancho Chili Jam

For the Jam

1/4 pound dried Ancho chiles
1/2 small yellow onion, chopped
1 head garlic
1 tablespoon coriander seeds, cracked
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, cracked
2 tablespoons raw cider vinegar
a few drops of hickory or mesquite liquid smoke (optional)
2 tablespoons olive or peanut oil, divided
1 tablespoon (or to taste) wild guajillo honey
sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper

Split the Ancho chiles open and remove the stem, seeds and ribs.  Lightly toast on a dry comal for about 20-30 seconds on each side.  Take care not to let the peppers burn or they will become very bitter.

Transfer the chiles to a glass bowl and cover with just-boiled water.  Allow to steep 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut the top off of a whole head of garlic, brush with olive oil, wrap in foil and roast for a half hour at 400 degrees.  Allow to cool.

Meanwhile, toast the chopped onions on a dry comal over medium heat until golden brown.  Add the cumin and coriander and toast another minute, again taking care not to let it burn.  Allow to cool.

Squeeze the garlic into the bowl of a food processor and add the  softened chiles and vinegar and pulse a couple of times into a thick, chunky paste.

Transfer the chili mixture to a bowl and stir in the seasoned onions and garlic.  Add honey, salt and pepper to taste.

Ancho chili jam is delicious with grilled, roasted or smoked meat, fowl or sausages (venison, bison and wild boarsausage shown).

Blackberry-Blue Cornmeal Pancakes with Guajillo Honey Butter

/ Ren

Heirloom blue cornmeal, fresh local blackberries, pastured eggs, cultured butter, fresh buttermilk and wild guajillo honey with a pinch of chili powder..

Blackberry-Blue Cornmeal Pancakes with Guajillo Honey Butter

1 cup organic stone-ground blue cornmeal
1 1/2 cups organic whole wheat pastry flour
2/3 cup fresh blackberries or blueberries
1 teaspoon aluminum-free baking soda
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/4 teaspoon chili powder (optional)
2 large pastured eggs
2 tablespoon cultured butter, melted plus 2 tablespoons cold
2 cups fresh buttermilk
1 teaspoon bacon drippings
2 tablespoons wild guajillo honey

Sift cornmeal, flour, baking soda, chili powder and salt together in a bowl.  In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs, milk and melted butter.  Slowly pour the wet ingredients into the dry, stirring just enough to combine. Gently fold in blackberries and allow mixture to stand 5 minutes.

Melt 1 tablespoon butter and 1 teaspoon bacon drippings in a heavy griddle or comal set over medium heat.  Drop batter by the quarter-cupful onto the hot pan and cook until the batter puffs up and bubbles appear along the edges, then flip and cook until golden brown. If making a large batch, pancakes may be kept in a low oven until ready to serve.

To serve, arrange pancakes on a plate and top with guajillo honey and semi-melted butter.  Garnish with additional fresh berries and serve hot.

Guajillo Pods

“Guajillo honey looms large in the history, culture and economy of southwestern Texas, particularly in the development of Uvalde County, located about 165 miles southwest of the state capital, Austin. During the 1870’s when settlers were establishing farms and ranches in Uvalde County, they discovered caves and hollow trees full of bees and honey- a bee paradise. The land was nicknamed ‘brush country’ because of the cat claw, kinnikinnick, white brush and Guajillo bushes…” -Slow Food USA

Smoked Duck Pizza

/ Ren

A crisp cornmeal crust is topped with Aji Mirasol & New Mexico chili sauce, sliced red onions, smoked duck breast, Anaheim peppers, Quesillo Oaxaca and a fried duck egg.  Garnished with chili-lime chicharrón and fresh cilantro..

Smoked Duck Pizza

For the Crust  [makes 2 7-inch crusts] (adapted from a recipe by Martha Stewart)

1 teaspoon active dry yeast
a pinch of sugar
1/3 cups warm water
3/4 cups sprouted wheat flour, plus more for work surface
1/4 cup organic, stone-ground cornmeal, plus more for pizza stone
1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for bowl

In a small bowl, sprinkle the yeast and sugar over the warm water. Let stand until yeast is dissolved and mixture is foamy, about 10 minutes.

Combine flour, cornmeal, and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the center, and add the yeast mixture and oil. Slowly stir ingredients with a wooden spoon just until dough starts to come together. Turn out dough on a lightly floured work surface, and knead until smooth and elastic, 7 to 10 minutes.

Divide dough into four 4-ounce balls. Place balls in a shallow oiled bowl, turning to coat with oil; cover with plastic wrap, and let rise 1 hour at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator.

Preheat oven to 500 degrees with a pizza stone on lowest rack. Stretch dough into 7-inch rounds. Sprinkle cornmeal on a pizza peel or inverted baking sheet.  Place dough rounds on top, and cooked until light golden brown, about 10 minutes.  Set aside to cool.

Slide rounds onto pizza stone, and bake until crust is crisp and golden and toppings are bubbling, 5 to 7 minutes.

For the Sauce

3-4 New Mexico chilies, stemmed and seeded
3-4 Aji Mirasol chilies, stemmed and seeded
3 cloves garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon raw guajillo honey
1 tablespoon Mexican oregano
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/4 cup tomato puree
sea salt to taste

Toast chilies in a dry skillet over medium heat for a minute or two on each side, taking care not to let them burn. Place the chilies in a bowl and cover with boiling water.  Let stand until soft, about 1 hour.

Drain chilies and add to the bowl of a food processor along with the cumin, garlic, honey, oregano and tomato puree and process until smooth.  Use a bit of the chili soaking water if needed to thin the sauce.  Taste and adjust for salt.

For the Chicharrón and Fried Eggs

The skin and fat layer of 1 duck breast, cut into 1″ julienne
chili powder
fresh lime

Cook duck fat with attached skin over medium-low heat until the fat has rendered and the skin is a deep golden brown.  Transfer to a side dish to drain then immediately season with chili powder and fresh-squeezed lime juice.

Pour off all but 2 teaspoons of duck fat, then crack eggs into hot pan.  Fry just until barely set, as the eggs will be finished in the oven.

To assemble

Use the back of a spoon to spread a thin layer of chili sauce over the cornmeal crust.  Arrange sliced, smoked duck breast, chopped red onion, sliced Anaheim peppers and Oaxaca cheese over the top.  Place fried egg in the center of the pizza then bake in a 500 degree oven until bubbly, about 5 minutes.

Garnish with chicharrón and fresh cilantro and serve immediately.

Pan-seared Venison Loin with Roasted Root Vegetables and Cranberry Port Reduction

/ Ren

The term ‘foodshed’ is similar to the concept of a watershed: while watersheds outline the flow of water supplying a particular area, foodsheds outline the flow of food feeding a particular area. Your foodshed encompasses the farm, your table and everything in between.  –foodroutes.org

Our foodshed, the Edwards Plateau of central Texas, offers an amazing abundance of food from deer, rabbit and feral hog to freshwater crayfish, bass and catfish and every manner of fruit and vegetable.

This local dish features whitetail deer, smoked bacon, sage, cranberries, sweet potatoes, parsnips and green garlic..

Pan-seared Venison Loin with Roasted Root Vegetables and Cranberry Port Reduction

For the Reduction

1/2 cup fresh  cranberries, rinsed and picked over
1/3 cup filtered water
1 teaspoon clarified butter
1 teaspoon freshly-squeezed Mayer lemon juice
1 teaspoon more-or-less guajillo honey
1 teaspoon shallot, minced
1 tablespoon port wine
sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper to taste

Heat butter in a heavy skillet over medium-low heat.  Add shallots and sauté until softened, about 2 minutes.  Add cranberries and water and simmer until cranberries pop and begin to soften.  Add port wine and simmer until reduced in volume by about half. Stir in lemon, season to taste with salt and pepper and add just enough honey to smooth out the tartness (the sauce should be balanced rather than sweet).  Keep warm.

For the Vegetables

A seasonal variety of root vegetables, perhaps including sweet potatoes, green garlic, carrots and parsnips, cut in smallish pieces
1 teaspoon pastured butter, melted
sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper

Toss vegetables in melted butter and season with salt and pepper.  Roast in a 400 degree oven for 15 minutes, then remove and set aside.  Vegetables will be underdone at this point.

For the Venison (serves 2)

12 oz fresh, unsliced venison loin (backstrap)
2 pieces applewood-smoked bacon, diced
1 1/2 teaspoons sage, crumbled
1 tablespoon pastured butter
sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper

Fry bacon in a heavy skillet over medium-low heat until crisp and all the fat has rendered.  Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bacon and sage to a side dish, leaving the hot bacon fat behind.  Rinse the venison, pat dry and season with salt and pepper.  Increase heat to medium and add butter to bacon fat fat.  Once shimmering, add the venison and sear until well browned, about 3 minutes per side.  Add par-roasted vegetables to the pan and place in a 400 degree oven until the venison is about 125-130 degrees at the thickest part (use a thermometer).  Remove from oven and allow to stand at least 5 minutes.

To serve, spoon cranberry reduction onto the center of a serving plate.  Slice venison into 3/4 inch-thick medallions and arrange around the plate along with roasted vegetables.  Garnish with crumbled bacon and sage and dress with a spoonful of pan juices.  Offer coarse salt on the side.