mascarpone

If I had a deli,

/ Ren

I would serve European-style smoked salmon on a toasted, by-God real New York bagel with locally-made triple-cream mascarpone, fresh dill, home-made preserved lemon, seasonal heirloom tomato, Sicilian capers, red onion, sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper..

Classic Smoked Salmon on a Toasted Bagel

Contrary to common legend, the bagel was not created in the shape of a stirrup to commemorate the victory of Poland’s King Jan Sobieski over the Ottoman Turks in 1683.  It was actually invented much earlier in Kraków, Poland, as a competitor to the bublik, a lean bread of wheat flour designed for Lent. In the 16th and first half of the 17th centuries, the bajgiel became a staple of the Polish national diet.

There was a tradition among many observant Jewish families to make bagels on Saturday evenings at the conclusion of the Sabbath.  Due to Jewish Sabbath restrictions, they were not permitted to cook during the period of the Sabbath and, compared with other types of bread, bagels could be baked very quickly as soon as it ended.

That the name originated from beugal (old spelling of Bügel, meaning bail/bow or bale) is considered plausible by many, both from the similarities of the word and because traditional handmade bagels are not perfectly circular but rather slightly stirrup-shaped  (this, however, may be due to the way the boiled bagels are pressed together on the baking sheet before baking).  Also, variants of the word beugal are used in Yiddish and Austrian German to refer to a round loaf of bread (see Gugelhupf for an Austrian cake with a similar ring shape), or in southern German dialects (where beuge refers to a pile, e.g., holzbeuge, or woodpile)…

Bagels were brought to the United States by immigrant Jews, with a thriving business developing in New York City that was controlled for decades by Bagel Bakers Local 338, which had contracts with nearly all bagel bakeries in and around the city for its workers, who prepared all the bagels by hand.  The bagel came into more general use throughout North America in the last quarter of the 20th century, at least partly due to the efforts of bagel baker Harry Lender and Florence Sender, who pioneered automated production and distribution of frozen bagels in the 1960s. -Wikipedia

Soaked Oatmeal with Wild Honeycomb, Mascarpone and Fried Bananas

/ Ren

Steel-cut oats are soaked overnight in cool, filtered water with a little lemon juice before being cooked with cinnamon and freshly-grated nutmeg.  Topped with banana slices fried in cultured butter with Tahitian vanilla, mascarpone thinned with fresh cream and a sprinkling of wild-harvested bee pollen..

Soaked Oatmeal with Wild Honeycomb, Mascarpone and Fried Bananas

For the Oats

1 cup traditional, steel-cut oats
1 cup cool, filtered water for soaking
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 cups filtered water for cooking
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/3 teaspoon freshly-grated nutmeg

2 teaspoons wild honeycomb
1 teaspoon wild-harvested bee pollen (not propolis)

Combine oats, water and lemon juice in a non-reactive bowl. Cover and allow to stand overnight. Transfer oats to a heavy saucepan, add water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes.  Add cinnamon, nutmeg and salt and keep warm until ready to use.

For the Bananas

1 just-ripe banana, bias-cut into 1/2 inch slices
2 tablespoons cultured butter
1 Tahitian vanilla bean, split and scraped

Melt butter in a heavy bottomed skillet over medium-low heat.  Scrape vanilla into pan and swirl to disperse.  Add bananas and cook until golden brown.  Flip and cook until the other side is browned, about 8 minutes. Total.  Pour remaining butter into oatmeal.

For the Mascarpone

1 pint raw, fresh cream (ultra-pasteurized cream will not work)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon filtered water

Heat the cream in a double-boiler until it reaches 185 degrees. Mix water and lemon juice and add to the cream; it should thicken right away. Keep mixture at 185 degree for a full 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Transfer mixture to a bowl, cover and refrigerate overnight. Transfer to a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a clean bowl, refrigerate allow allow to separate 12-24 hours.  Mascarpone will keep in the refrigerator for about 1 week.

To serve, spoon warm oatmeal into a bowl and drizzle cream-tinned mascarpone around the perimeter. Top with fried bananas and a spoonful of honeycomb and sprinkle with bee pollen.

Blackberry Mascarpone Pancakes

/ Ren

Marion blackberries, fresh mascarpone, soaked and sprouted flours, vanilla bean paste, pastured butter and eggs and a dollop of maple butter..

Blackberry Mascarpone Pancakes

Blackberry Mascarpone Pancakes

For the Mascarpone

1 pint farm-fresh cream (not the ultra-pasteurized stuff from the grocery store)
1 teaspoon cream of tartar

Put the cream into the top of a double boiler set over shimmering (not boiling) water.  Once the cream is warm, stir in the cream of tartar and stir continuously until the cream reaches 180 degrees F as measured by a thermometer.  Immediately remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally.  Pour into a bowl lined with cheesecloth or a clean towel, cover and allow to stand at room temperature for 24 hours.  Use within 2 days.

For the Soaked Flour

6 oz organic whole wheat pastry flour
3 oz filtered water
1 tablespoon buttermilk (can substitute whey or yoghurt)

Combine all ingredients in a glass bowl, cover loosely and allow to stand at room temperature for 24 hours.

For the Pancake Batter (informed by a ratio by Michael Ruhlman)

6 oz soaked flour
2 oz sprouted whole wheat flour
2 pastured eggs
2 oz cultured butter, melted
2 tablespoons mascarpone
1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste (substitute vanilla extract)
1 1/2 tablespoons rapadura
2 teaspoons aluminum-free baking powder
1 scant teaspoon fine sea salt
buttermilk as needed
Marion or other blackberries, halved if large

Whisk the mascarpone until fluffy, then whisk in the remaining wet ingredients.  Combine the dry ingredients together in a separate bowl, then combine with the wet ingredients.  Thin with buttermilk until thick but pour-able.

Method

Heat a comal or cast iron skillet over a little less than medium heat.  Grease lightly with butter, then place small clusters of blackberries around the pan.  Let the berries sizzle a bit, then ladle the batter over the top.  Cook until golden brown, turning once.  Serve hot from the pan with a dollop of maple butter.

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This post is part of Real Food Wednesdays

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